Aleppo - Syria

Ian and I are just back from a four day trip to Syria. Despite all the bad press, it is an extremely friendly country - the people were incredibly warm and welcoming. And on the surface at least, it appears to be very tolerant. We saw local women wandering around in tight jeans and strappy tops - something unheard of in the Gulf. And best of all, we enjoyed a glass of wine in street cafes!

Our first stop was Aleppo, in the north of the country. Aleppo is Syria's second city and is famous for its citadel, its souk, its soap and its Agatha Christie connection - she wrote the first part of "Murder on the Orient Express" while staying at the city's Baron Hotel. It is also reputed to have the best food in the country.

The souk is a warren of covered alleyways, selling eveything from drinks to diamonds, carpets to coffee pots and clothes to calves' heads (yes really - vegetarians look away now. UK health and safety would have an apoplectic fit). It dates back hundreds of years and is still the place all Aleppans go to shop.

The Aleppan soap is made from olive oil and bay laurel and is 100% natural. Apparently it was used by several queens of the Middle East. And it's quite a process to make it, with the most expensive soap being aged in much the same way as cheese or wine. Some is stored for 8 years! We were lucky enough to buy some from one of the local factories, although the production season was over - it can only be made in the cooler months or it doesn't set properly.

And once you have finished your wanderings, copy the locals and visit this elaborately-dressed man for a refreshing cup of tea!