Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Shopping for fish

When we lived in Brussels, we had a fishmongers on our street. Family-run for generations, it was enormously popular and on Sunday mornings the Bruxellois would queue out of the door for the fresh mussels, prawns, sole and monkfish to conjure up some culinary delight for their family lunch. Fish was filleted in front of you on a huge, ancient wooden block and on your way out you could pick up a bottle of the best Sancerre or Chablis to enjoy with your purchase.

The Bahrainis are also fish-lovers and many families have been fishermen for generations. They have been suffering in recent years as reclamation and development work has not only robbed them of their harbours and jetties, but has also led to a loss of fish stock to Qatari and Iranian waters.

While some fish is available in supermarkets, the best place to go for the freshest catch is the fish market. Fishermen yell out the prices of their daily catch, the floor swims with briny water and the smell by midday is overwhelming. It is a part of Bahrain that, for now, remains unchanged, unmodernised. And while the fishmongers may not have the panache of their Belgian counterparts, they have a charm all of their own.





9 comments:

  1. Please send me 4 packets of the placenta soap:)

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  2. I love looking around these kind of markets. Great photo opportunities too. We looked around the wet market in Singapore recently, all kinds of fresh fruits and veg, meats and fish, spices etc, all in the separate sections. And you are right, but midday the smells can be overpowering - definitely a place to visit early morning!

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  3. Meabh - don't you want a bottle of the bovine colostrum as well? Lovely to get your comment!

    Victoria - the fish market is definitely one of the best places in Bahrain. I did make the mistake when I first visited of not bringing a change of shoes. My car stank of wet fish for days afterwards. Now I always change into flip flops on arrival!

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  4. No wonder you wear flip-flops!
    I love the idea of fish markets but in practice I feel a bit scared: never know what to ask for so end up not bothering. Quite hopeless!

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  5. Trish - I know how you feel. I went with a friend who was far more knowledgeable in all things fishy than I.

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  6. The fish market, very similar in Pakistan as well ... I love the experience of a fresh market ... it's booming with not just the items being sold but ... the people, the culture the mood, it's awesome.

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  7. Beautiful pictures! What character in that first woman's face. Do the Bahrainis allow their pictures to be taken? In Morocco, I could not photographs most people due to religious customs.

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  8. Hey Kate, thinking of you with all the goings on in Bahrain. Are you still there? Hope you and your family are safe and well!

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  9. Celeste - thanks for the kind message. We are still here and all fine. Events have been pretty localised so far. We are obviously hoping they won't escalate...

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